Design Context Blog: Final Essay.

How is identity constructed within consumerism?

Consumerism is an order within society in which endorses the idea of purchasing goods and services. This is a movement, which is in search for creating the ideal self. This leads to attitudes, which are constructed through materialistic values & enhances the theory of possessions. Finally it is thought that the vast growth in this movement & therefore the vast growth in consumption will profit the economy. Consumption, is the purchase of belongings, this has become dominant towards our everyday life. Individuals obtain products not only on the value, but also on the personal connotation, where they endow in goods & services.

The birth of the consumer society was first constructed in the early Modern Western Europe. The spread of the consumerist culture, in the early twentieth century, is when people began to consume products for what they want rather than what they need. For example, clothing wasn’t purchased for the practicality of protecting them from the weather, but to promote their identity.

In our postmodern society, there are many attributes that have affected our position within our life, & consumerism is tied within this too. Consumer culture is defined by everything around you and has a powerful impact on children & adolescents, this is through the idolisation of celebrities and media stars, as they aspire to look like them & want to be like them. Therefore, most of the world’s population is now growing with people who revolve around desire, and now to be affluence is now a well-known goal in life, as the population has been manipulated into relying on the purchase of material belongings. Bauman states,

“we are all on the move, but at the rich & affluent end of the hierarchy, individuals experience themselves participating & exulting in the movement characteristic of contemporary life, while those at the other, impoverished end are helplessly driven by it.” (Bauman, 1999, pg35)

This is strengthening the point made earlier in the essay that the society relies on the culture of consumerism. This is also enlightened by how it has divided society as it is creating vast economic inequalities. This is reinforced by consumer market, as they have been noted to influence its customers by seducing them to purchase the product. But in order for the market to be able to do this, the companies need customers who want to be manipulated. In order to do this, companies never leave the consumer to rest, as they expose new desires, to maintain their perpetual thoughts.

A number of authors have considered how consumerism is expanding and the possible causes of this powerful movement within the western society. Bauman (2005), Woodruffle (1997), O’Shaugnessy and O’Shaugnessy (2002), have all commented upon the fact that consumerism is risen by our pride & economic growth. For instance (Bauman, 2002, pg27) suggests that the patriotic duty to support the economy and make sure it is constantly buoyant. He argues that the ‘economic growth’ is the ‘main modern measure of things been normal’. Essential they are suggesting that consumerism is appreciated within society, and consequently the norm is now to bewilder between the sense of needing something & wanting something. Now mass production of goods has also allowed more people to live more comfortably and made it possible for anyone to attain a sense of style, blurring the most obvious forms of class distinction. For instance O’Shaugnessy and Oshaugnessy (2002) studied the decline of the community spirit. As they say that’s because of the increased mobility options, they have now started to create social bonds easily through the freedom of transport. They have now started to explore for social connections through consumption. This idea is strengthened through the thoughts of Ransome & Bauman (2005), as they believe that your occupation, therefore your social class no longer constructs identity. Consumption has replaced work and the means of forming our identity.

We are all consumers of goods & services, but many exaggerate the need of consumption. This is due to the idea that many are incontrollably buying unnecessarily, almost like an addiction. The image of an addiction is the idea of being dependent on a habit for example, taking drugs. An addiction has very influential power which results them into changing into someone else completely, which is often referred to as an addict. The bearer of the addictive commodities tends to confuse the difference between the want and the need of products. And therefore the addiction is taking control over the reasons and therefore the autonomy of the individual is banished. The interest of shopping has grown over the years and this has become a streamline activity for families to do together, as a form of entertainment. This has replaced quality time at home, as now we are continually bombared with messages that we “need more”. This is through television, Internet & many others passing on subliminal messages. This is passing on a mentality throughout the generations making them focus on what else do I need? Rather than them being grateful for what they have.

The use of subliminal messaging has been used in the Chanel advert(fig.1). This printed advertisement was printed within high glossy magazines, such as Vogue & Bazaar. In which, both of these magazines present Chanel No5 as a required accessory for every women’s feminity. Also, the quote, which is headlining the page, is stating that every woman loves Chanel. These are both robust statements and therefore portraying an underlying message, saying that if you don’t want this product then you are less of a woman and if you don’t own the perfume then your womanly qualities are inferior to others in the possession of the fragrance. Therefore, this is when the confusion within the consumer is created, due to the need of owning the object that in theory will strengthen your feminine identity. Therefore, the want is apparent due to this inferior assumption.

“If you are able to buy this product you will be lovable. If you cannot buy It, you will be less lovable” (Berger, J, 1972, Pg 144)

This is therefore suggesting that it is a luxury personal need, but you don’t need it. This is an explicit message of the publicity as it is saying that been able to buy this is been sexually desired.

Which brings me to idea of the postmodernist adverts created by Barbara Krugar(fig.2). One from the collection, which obviously strengthens the idea of subliminal messages, is “Buy me! I’ll change your life”. The adverts are influencing the mind of the consumer by not only selling them the product. But selling them a non-practical product that creates a socially constructed happy life, known as the “good life”. Happiness is now created through consumption & is a commodity within life.

Marxs decribes commodity as “fetishism”, this is the development through relationships between the form of commodity & your association with this. In numerous ways, fetishism is a belief in which is needed in order for social acceptance. The goods & services purchased only have worth due to the people who are purchasing them. However, this is a viscious circle and therefore people are forced to unite with this movement and act the way they do. Even if people discovered this false nature they would still endure this way of life due to been trapped in assumption. Commodities do have value, but as a consequence of social interaction, they have been socially constructed. Which leads to them been assigned to a status. This proceeds to people having no individual control within capitalism. This relates to the theory of Poundstone and how restaurants manipulate us use through the use of the menu layout & design. Menu designers use lessons of behavioural economics to nudge us into ordering what the chef wants us to. William Poundstone has studied more than 100 menu, from Michelin-starred restaurants to the vast, illuminated sign menus of fast-food joints, to unveil the science behind their design. Some restaurants use what researchers call decoys. For example, they may place a really expensive item at the top of the menu, so that other dishes look more reasonably priced; research shows that diners tend to order neither the most nor least expensive items, drifting toward the middle. Or restaurants might play up a profitable dish by using more appetizing adjectives and placing it next to a less profitable dish with less description so the contrast entices the diner to order the profitable dish. This is the use of subliminal messages just like they use within advertisements to make people subconsciously need certain things, so therefore they are taking control over the consumption of consumers to benefit themselves rather than to suit the individual. This is also seen within different industries such as retail & grocerys with the manipulation of the consumer through the process of the brain & strategies of the individual.

There are many diagrams trying to explain the consumer behavior, in which I am going to vaguely compare. The first model is by Engel, Blackwell & Miniard (fig.4), which has the hypothesis that the consumer has a problem and they consume a particular product to fully resolve this matter. The second model by Howard-Sheth (fig.5) puts greater importance on the perception, attitudes & learning processes. The two are very similar as they both are proposing a rational customer, but the first model is willing to sacrafise where possible as there is no output. Finally, the third model is the Nicosia model (fig.6), this is very different to the first two models due to this demonstrates the selling attributes of the organisation. Although, all the models share the ideology that the consumers buying experience influences their prospect buying in the future.

So can these models influence your identity also? Identity is very fluid and you can change any part of yourself in surgery therefore you can physically change your identity as well as it been effected emotionally. In the same way that we create our own identities, we also create the opposite, which is what we are not, and what we don’t want to be. This is called ‘othering’, this method reassures & confirms our identities.

This is an advertisement in which enforces both of these theories. Its advertising the luxury brand of the Rolex (fig.7). And suggests that individuals who buy this watch have a considerable amount of power due to the quote stated.

'A Rolex will never change the world. We leave that to the people who wear them.' This is stating that if you buy a Rolex you gain dominance within society to change the world. Linking this amount of power to a simple everyday article which is directing the audience to become a consumer due to the ability of the object. Implying that this is enhancing their identity into a wealthy and powerful consumer.

Identities develop and mould through the way people choose to portray themselves. These simple options alter the way others perceive their choice of identity. This is because of society’s identification of certain styles, and therefore divides them in to different categories of individuals. This is othering also, with the idea of indiviuals, categorising other people I society due to their appearance. For example, if you are seen to be wearing a Rolex then others will observe you to be affluent. This advert is playing on the idea that people will want to be seen as powerful and uses this to promote the product. This advert is targeting the consipicuous consumer as it is publically displaying a luxury product to achieve a wealthy identity by others.

The use of othering has also been used, by persuading the audience to judge themselves against the man in the image. His identity is shown as a high status due to his stance behind all the microphones suggesting people are wanting to know his opinion, therefore connoting authority.

“Consumption is crucially about the negotiation of status & identity – the practice and communication of social position” (Slater, 1997, pg30)

This reinforces the theory of the advertisement above as this is stating that consumption is based around status and identity and it communicates and identitfies your position within society. The consumers are aware of that due to them implementing the task of “othering”.

Identity is a complex experience, influenced by intentional & unintentional factors. Even though, we would like to think that we have control of our own form of identity. There is a major part, which is reliant on opportunity & awareness of themselves. Also, no matter how much we try and influence our own self, and create an individual identity. We will always have a slight influence from others within society. So rather than viewing these influences as something that will impose us, we need to embrance them, and decide on how we are going to use them.

The 2011 Lynx ad ‘The cleaner you are, the dirtier you get' (fig.3), is presenting the female as an object so that the male audience will be attracted visually. The model gazes out of the advert at the viewer and as her bikini top is falling off. She manages to hold it up by cupping her breasts, therefore allowing them to judge her without the viewer being challenged with a returning gaze. The seductive female’s damp hair is suggesting that she is in the shower and therefore could be connoting an invitation. The advert is a clear example of how advertising today still depicts women as objects and promotes gender roles.

It is selling a false lifestyle, as it is saying use lynx shower gel and you will suddenly have a dirty sex life. When in fact this is not for certain but uses this to target their audience. It is making out it will enrich your life, when in fact it is making you poorer. This is also relating to the quote by Berger:

‘It promotes to each of us that we transform ourselves, or our lives, by buying something more.’ (Berger,1972, Pg 131)

Not only do adverts like these encourage the idea of females being a passive object of male visual pleasure, they also encourage women look at themselves being looked at, and in turn objectify themselfs as a subject of a gaze.

This quote I found imparticular relevant:

"Men act and women appear. Men look at women. Women watch themselves being looked at". (Berger, J 1972, Pg 47)

One key factor in consumerism & advertising is the use of gender division & using women as sexual objects. Berger talks about society and how gender roles are portraying females as objects. Then also how the media persuades women to constantly judge them. These are very apperent in the media ethos of advertising nowadays. His analysis on the subject is that female models constantly shown for the spectators opinion & appreciation. This leads to images that strengthen the ideology of the inequality of gender and overtly sexualisting the female physique.

Lynxs are very aware of their target market and therefore using messages, in this manner will attract their attention, through endorsing on the gender roles within society. They are trying to adapt this product to the everyday life of the consumer, by exaggerating the result of using the product they are selling:

“Publicity is about social relations, not objects. Its promise is not of pleasure, but of happiness: happiness as judged from the outside by others.” (Berger, J, 1972, Pg133.)

This is related to the lynx advert due to the way the public has been made to view women. Which also links to what Freud says about power and the sexual desires of men, as it shows there great stopping power due to telling them they will achieve there innate desire, to be attractive to women. This enhances the quote taken from a selection from the ways of seeing passage:

“The gap between what publicity actually offers and the future it promises, which corresponds with the gap between what the spectator-buyer feels himself to be and what he would like to be.” (Berger, 1972, Pg 148)

This is therefore giving false hope and enhancing the idea that the goods that they are purchased are a commodity and are worthless. They are never left to rest and constantly exposed to temptations which are envitably going to work and this may possibly be the answer to one of the many factors towards the birth of a consumerist addict.

In the postmodern consumerist movement, identity embraces the idea of individuals trading images to find their involvement within society & their own lives. It’s the distinct aspirations & desires that form the individuals’ sense of identity. Consumerism is a movement in which is constantly searching for meaning within your existence. The act of shopping, now has become an answer to all problems within lifes difficulties, we seek solutions in shops to feel a sense of satisfaction. Just after the 11/9 outrage George W. Bush told Americans to get over the trauma & go back to normal, in which he found no better words than “go back shopping”. The ease of the action of disposing one object of consumption in order to replace it with a “new & improved one. Which supplies us with a social standing & creates the score for the rivalry with life’s success.

The role of consumerism has become a large part within society. Our identity is now structured from our looks to our beliefs & fears. The postmodern theory is influenced by consumerism due to the idea that we seek & influence our identity through external sways & encouragements. We wear masks to face society so that we fit within the world around us. One of these external sways is through advertising, as the consumer culture is presented with the ‘ideal identity’. This is due to the enhanced appearances, & them believing this will promote the products and convey onto the consumers a way of life & instructions on how to achieve the “good life”. This is why people are striving for the “body perfect” image and the “good life”. This is not only women striving for this ideal identity, as the ideal male body is also rising with concerns about appearance, this is names the “Adonis complex” (Pope et al, 2000) The media portrays an increasingly muscular figure, this is an naturally unachievable in a short period of time, which collides with the idea of the thin model appearance. Whereas, these can both effect health, & therefore they are prioritising their identity over their lifestyle choices.

To conclude, society has realised that they have become encapsulated by their desire to consume, although they are aware of this entrapment they continue to leave their attributes unchanged. But, I also believe that there is no detriment in having a broad variation in goods & services, as this is a trend within modern society. To a degree, I think that whether we are passive or active within the consumerism, is dependant on our contribution within society. In which, this will also influence our wisdom & our choices which directs our path for creating our own identity. People themselves have created consumerism as they have encouraged it & they look for it within society. Individuals often justify & excuse their actions due to the phenomenon but in theory they are wholely to blame. Although, the use of the manipulation techiques are so strong that consumers are constantly been trapped by this process unknowlingly known to them.