Fashion & Photography

Fashion & Photography

 This is not what we mean when we say fashion photography.

 

 This is another example of how clothes are photographed which is called a ghost mannequin.

This is fixed onto a polished pewter plate. Its a view from a window, as you can see the rooftops. The next stage would be to make it reproducable, which is an important factor in the world of photography.

 Louis Daguerre 

They was sitting there long enough for them to been seen and because of the long exposure theres no traffic in the street.

William Henry Fox Talbot

Invented fixing process, this was a box which received an image through natural light although they was not able to capture or fix the image. This is where photographic image became available to the masses.

 You can see the destruction of the negative.

 The idea of photographing people and fashion which this is a interesting example of this. she is a wealthy woman and due to her wealth and interest in fashion she gets people to take pictures of her in her expensive gowns. She is the director of it and she sets up theatrical scenes and posing in a way which is reference to theater.

 This is another one of her and there is a suggestiveness to quite a lot of these images. In which she rein acts significant moments in her life, her political history. She spends her fortune in her photography.

 At the time this would have been a risky activity as it would be pushing the boundaries of what would be acceptable at this period of time.

Age of fashion magazine 

Photography cam in and replaced the drawn illustration 

Paul Poiret

He is trained through the house of worth. His clothing is a move away from a sculptured body and his clothing is very loose.

 Steichen is an eminant photographer, he is a pitorialist photographer. He featured the style of the day. It has the paintly feel and soft and rendering look which make it look like brush work.

 This is a simular theme although not showing the characteristics of Steichen's work. The woman loks like a model, she is posing in a romantic away. And seems to be captured in thought and therefore could be in character. The flowers in the vase and hair is adding to the scene of romance.

 We find photographers moving away fro the characters. As here he is photographing a active pose. There is an element in blur and more like a sport image, as he was a news & sport photographer which influences his fashion photography too. There is casualness introduced, looking after the body.

Steichen, also moves from the pictorial photography. And starts to capture modern abstract shapes which unusual lighting and using the camera for its qualities. As we get to mid 1930s this is the elegance. As a model she is not just a model for the clothing and she is known in her own light.

 Photography starts to appear on the covers of the magazine. This is one of the first to be done.

 Influenced by greek mythical draping. This is style is making motion and dream light feel to the image where the model is given a mythical beauty. As we look at fashion photography images as something unreachable to an ordinary person.

 Here he is photographing costume. It was a film which was made in 1999 this features semi naked figures. Investigating ways of using camera to show surrealism.

Cecil Beaton

She reflects the social status. The bright Young Things who are wealthy young people, which are interested in the fashion field. Cecil is one of the bright young things himself. he is famous for his diaries at the time. And the images that he takes are a part of that. 

 His celebrity photography. He is working with the most prominent actresses of the day. He placed her in the back stage scenery, so we get this impression of the star but in the moment where she is not in the lime light. The lighting is used to create a dramatic scene to be captured in the moment of acting.

 He was famous for his decidant lifestyle, who spent most of his life in bed. He was a bohemian characters that Cecil photographed. 

 He is also a royal photographer, he uses an approach which is using scenery and photographs her in her home and opulent setting. Making the royals into a glamourous set at the time, his photography not just about fashion but also the wealth and the lifestyle that comes with this.

 She is a model herself, and in the environmental style which is set in a studio. She became a model at a very young ages and became a photographer herself. She gets involved in the surrealist movement herself.

 This is one of her photos which is clearly influenced by the surrealist movement. 

 She also photographs in documentary. She crosses both the glamour and the real world at the same time. 

Louise Dahl Wolfe

Taking the model from the set to an environmental setting.

 This is taking the model out of the studio, with amazing lightening which illuminates her body and the statue. We have this kind of comparison of still life and the life model. She uses the statue in the forground to style the model in her image. We have this doubling up and playing with our perception of maybe doing it as a reflection. A reference to a classical female figure.

 This is a super model of a time. This idea of the figure of foreground and the figure in the background. The use of an exotic location starts to filter into the fashion photography. 

 Kodak used the colour film. Even though this was not popular within the fashion photography industry.

 Bring a documentary style into the fashion photography. He talks about been commisioned in his use of movement and blur. He takes photographs in a hazardous way. He translates that into his fashion photography. Here he is sing a long lens and he is letting the models interacting with the street itself, and letting the action unfold infront of him. What he was interested in doing and seeing peoples reacting of a model crossing the zebra crossing. Playing with real life as street photography become really popular.

Popular culture photo, they have self taught themselves in the swing London. 

 This is a spread from Town magazine. This is clearly influenced by film, with a bond like character.

 This is a 60s every girl, girl next door rather than an unattainable character. The models have become more accessable. In this image she capturates the liberation f the female with a part time job and shaking off the posterity of the 1960s. She is looking at the camera in a seductive way, she is showing that she is at the shop window of menswear. The awareness where its more agreement between them and not as a mannequin.

 This is a new aproach to fashion photography, where he recreates the world of fashion photography. Avedon is kind of pioneer in the sense of using sense of reality in fashion which impacts on documentary as well. 

 Hes giving us this off camera moment where he highlights the sense of movement through the lead that has been left in at the back.

He photographs people that he meets on the way to Oklahoma. Avadon sets him in a studio setting which is the opposite of his fashion photography and turns them into a model even though they don't have the features of a model.

 There is also the use of the body at this time. There is an objectivification of the female body. The new signature style. This is a self portrait with wife and models. Included his wife sat on the chair on the right hand side. Because of the use of the mirror we can see the front and back of the model. Reminding us that its only taking for our good, its an objectification of the body but what he is saying is that its OK cause my wife is here.

 Him juicing the body just to the part which is important for the product, His images are very influenced by the surrealist movement.

 This is retropectively not at the time that the photographs was made. He is part of this culture and these are the people he lives with and is an interesting document.

 This is an straight-up photography where photographers start to go out on the streets and take photographs of real people on the street and ask them what there wearing. Its pioneering and moving away for inaccessible fashion and moving towards punk era fashion.

 On the left we have the ID wink which is the characteristic of the iD. Images that are not airbrushed and that she is talked about extensively. There is this trend called the herion chic, drug & dance scene. 

 German photograher working for face. He is known for this untouched style. Fashion shoot which loks more documentary shoot, although its clearly staged.

 This is a model and photographer, in the images we see a modelistic style which is a room which could be a squat. This is a reflection of the time of clubbing.

 

 This is her most famous photograph of where she documents of everything about her life. Its of Tara's deterioration and how she goes through drug use to poorly.

 The introduction to photoshop. We move towards the potential of been able to remove flaws and take away and add things on to the body so its more edited. Therefore more distractions, its a well known photoshoped image.

 This is an hyperreal body which is modified either through sugery or photoshop. This a very controversial image of pornography. He is erasing the line of pornography and fashion photography.

Nick Knight

We have now stepped over the line of cartoon and photography. It doesn't have the quality of the photograph and has perfected reality. This is a reflection of working with designers such as Gareth Pugh. 

Fashion Blogging

The emergence has become. As everyone has street cameras now and everyone can take photos and therefore is democratizes fashion photography. Which means real people have the gateway to get to this emergence.

 This is the place of people like face hunter started.

 This also transforms into bedroom fashion photography. WhatIWoreToday.com this exploded on the internet and then takes on so everyone sends there image in and the use of mobile phone in the shot. This is imitated on the sight when others send there photos in, its not about low technology and not about quality its more about the document of the personal side of fashion.

This is the reality of the job market as every body can do this and you don't have to go to college to be in the field. Been the model the photographer and the blogger means that theres a narrowing of the fields of expertise. They are available to anyone and everyone. Is this a loss to the creative industries? Is it a threat?

 Street Fashion, taken in to the realm in an art project. Exactitudes, they are making a project that is simular to the face of our time to document the global fashion. They are making a typeology. They group people into simular fahsion groups. Also tell us where they found the people. It seems to telling us that individuality is not possible in a globalised fashion world, it draws together as what we think of as street fashion is us just aligning ourselfs.

We are seeing an homogenized group where its hard to be individual.

Further Research:

Book: In Vogue: An Illustrated History of the World's Most Famous Fashion Magazine

          Fashion History: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century

Internet: http://www.aidan.co.uk/article_fashion1.htm 

                http://www.koreandoll.net/2012/07/the-history-of-fashion-photography.html